Lighthouse Charities · Rose Creek Farms, Las Vegas NV · O*NET-SOC 45-2092.00 · RAPIDS 0177CB
A registered apprenticeship in commercial urban agriculture — developed in cooperation with the Nevada Labor Commissioner and U.S. Department of Labor. Hosted at Rose Creek Farms, Las Vegas NV.
Schematic layout of production zones at 3939 Bradley Rd. Apprentices rotate through all zones over the program year.
When each crop is in season at Rose Creek Farms. Green = active growing/harvest. Blue = start indoors. Gray = dormant / off-season.
Season runs late February through late January. Filter by season or view all 12 months.
15 competency areas totaling 1,481 on-the-job learning hours.
| ID | Work Process / Competency Area | Approx. Hours | Primary Season |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | Orchard & perennial crop management | 65 | Year-round |
| B | Irrigation installation & management | 65 | Year-round |
| C | Indoor plant propagation | 131 | Winter–Spring |
| D | Integrated pest management | 65 | Year-round |
| E | Weed management | 131 | Spring–Summer |
| F | Harvest & post-harvest / market prep | 328 | Summer–Fall |
| G | Tool & equipment operation & maintenance | 65 | Year-round |
| H | Marketing (markets & produce subscriptions) | 65 | Spring–Fall |
| I | Composting & soil amendments | 65 | Fall–Winter |
| J | Bed preparation, seeding & transplanting | 261 | Winter–Spring |
| K | Hydroponics & indoor farming | 55 | Year-round |
| L | Lavender harvesting & distilling | 75 | Spring–Summer |
| M | Greenhouse operations | 45 | Winter–Spring |
| N | Chicken maintenance & care | 45 | Year-round |
| O | Seed propagation | 20 | Winter–Early Spring |
| Total OJL Hours | 1,481 | ||
Minimum 144 hours of RTI per year. Courses are delivered by subject matter experts.
Managing pests and disease in the Mojave Desert climate. Organic treatments, companion planting, soil health as first defense. Desert-specific pressures including aphids, whiteflies, spider mites, and fungal issues in humid microclimates.
Principles of when, why, and how to prune each species on the farm. Tool sanitation, dormant vs. active season timing for Las Vegas, and reading a tree's structure to make smart cuts.
In partnership with the Las Vegas Worm Farm. Operating and maintaining a worm composting system, producing vermicast, and applying worm castings to rebuild desert soils for food production.
Field trips and guest lectures from Las Vegas Valley agricultural operators. Topics include mushroom cultivation, beekeeping, cover crops, urban aquaponics, CSA models, and farm business management.
In partnership with Nectar Life. Full lavender-to-oil value chain: harvest timing, cutting and bundling, drying, and operating distillation equipment. Safety, quality control, yield measurement, and product storage.
Species-specific pruning protocols for Rose Creek Farms orchard. Primary window: December–February in Las Vegas.
In partnership with Nectar Life. Supports OJL competency L (75 hrs) and RTI course E (~49 hrs). Season: April–June at Rose Creek Farms.
Apprentices must consistently demonstrate the following behavioral standards throughout the program.
Per the 2023 Non-Joint Standards of Apprenticeship, Nevada Labor Commissioner.
| Period | Hours Range | Minimum Hourly Wage | Wage Basis |
|---|---|---|---|
| Months 1–6 | 0 – ~740 hrs | $15.00 / hr | Starting minimum per Standards |
| Months 7–12 | ~740 – 1,481 hrs | $17.00 / hr | Progressively increasing schedule |
| Journeyworker | Post-completion | $20.00 / hr | Journey rate minimum per Standards |
RTI online video scripts · 49 clips · 5 courses · all clips 2–5 minutes
~30 RTI hours · OJL Competency D
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | Pest Management — A1 · Clip 1 of 2: What is IPM? |
| Host at farm entrance | Every crop you grow is going to attract something that wants to eat it. Our job is not to eliminate every pest — it's to keep things in balance. That's the core idea of Integrated Pest Management. |
| ON SCREEN: IPM Definition | IPM — using the least disruptive, most effective combination of tools to manage pests. |
| Host walks row | Four principles in order. Prevention first — healthy soil, correct spacing, resistant varieties, clean tools. This happens before any pest shows up. |
| Graphic: 4 steps | Monitoring — walking rows on a schedule, looking closely. Identification — knowing exactly what you're dealing with before you act. Response — the least toxic, most targeted solution available. |
| Host to camera | That sequence matters. Prevent. Monitor. Identify. Respond. Skipping straight to spraying every time you see a bug harms your beneficial insects and never solves the actual problem. |
| Outro | Next clip: The Rose Creek Farms scouting routine. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | Pest Management — A1 · Clip 2 of 2: Scouting |
| Host with clipboard | Every Monday and Thursday morning before 9am, we walk every growing zone with a clipboard. Consistency is what makes scouting work — you build a baseline so you can spot changes early. |
| ON SCREEN: What to Check | Check: insect presence and count · unusual leaf color or texture · wilting · webbing · sticky residue · galls or distortion |
| Host inspects leaf underside | Always check the undersides of leaves. That's where aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies feed and lay eggs. The top surface shows damage. The underside shows the pest. |
| Close-up: log sheet | When you find something, write it down: crop, bed location, what you found, roughly how many. Your log is the record that tells us whether a population is growing, stable, or declining. |
| Host taps leaf over white paper | Spider mite detection: hold white paper under a suspect leaf and tap it sharply. Moving dots on the paper mean mites. Act fast — populations can triple in a week during a Las Vegas heat wave. |
| Host finishes log | If you finish a scout and haven't written anything down, walk again. Missing a building pest population is far more costly than five extra minutes of looking. |
| Outro | Next: Module A2 — Identifying desert pests. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | A2 · Clip 1 of 2: Aphids, Whiteflies & Spider Mites |
| Host intro | These three pests account for the majority of soft-bodied crop problems at Rose Creek Farms. Know each one on sight. |
| Close-up: aphid colony | Aphids — soft-bodied, pear-shaped, clustered on new growth and leaf undersides. Spring and fall peak in Las Vegas — 60s and 70s°F. They reproduce fast: a colony can double in days. |
| ON SCREEN: Aphid threshold | Action threshold: established colonies on multiple plants OR visible leaf curl. A few on one plant — watch 3 days first. |
| Close-up: whiteflies, shake plant | Whiteflies — tiny white moths, 1mm. Shake an infested plant and a cloud flies up. They thrive above 80°F and poorly with good airflow. |
| Close-up: spider mite webbing | Spider mites — our worst summer pest. Fine pale stippling on leaves, then thin webbing. They thrive above 100°F in low humidity — exactly Las Vegas summer. |
| Host taps leaf over paper | Early mite detection: tap a suspect leaf onto white paper. Moving dots mean mites. |
| Outro | Next clip: Thrips, scale, and leaf miners. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | A2 · Clip 2 of 2: Thrips, Scale & Leaf Miners |
| Close-up: thrips damage | Thrips — barely visible, 1–2mm, slender. Look for the damage first: silvery streaks or flecked scarring on flowers and young growth. Significant on peppers and tomatoes — they spread viruses. |
| Close-up: scale on citrus | Scale insects look more like a disease than a bug — hard or waxy shell attached to stems. Scrape one off and you'll find the insect underneath. Most common on our citrus and stone fruits. |
| ON SCREEN: Scale ID tip | Scale ID: small brown or tan bumps on woody stems. If they scrape off with a fingernail = scale. If they're part of the bark = lenticels. |
| Close-up: leaf miner trails | Leaf miners — fly larvae tunneling between leaf surfaces. Hold an affected leaf to light and see pale winding trails. They reduce leafy crop quality but rarely kill a plant. |
| Host walking | Pest-to-crop mapping: mites and whiteflies on tomatoes and peppers in summer. Thrips on flowers and peppers. Scale on woody trees. Leaf miners on beets, chard, and herbs. |
| Outro | Next: Module A3 — Organic treatments. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | A3 · Clip 1 of 2: Neem Oil & Insecticidal Soap |
| Host at bench | When scouting says it's time to act, we start with the least disruptive effective option. Neem oil and insecticidal soap are our two primary tools. |
| Close-up: measuring neem | Neem oil disrupts the lifecycle of soft-bodied insects. Mix one tablespoon per quart of warm water plus a few drops of dish soap. Shake constantly — neem separates quickly. |
| ON SCREEN: Neem Rules | Never apply above 90°F or in full sun — burns foliage. Apply early morning or evening. Coat leaf undersides. Repeat every 5–7 days for active infestations. |
| Host mixes soap spray | Insecticidal soap works on contact — breaks down the soft outer layer. Mix two teaspoons per quart. No residual effect, so full coverage matters. Reapply every 3–5 days. |
| Host demonstrates spray technique | Hold the sprayer 6–8 inches from the leaf. Work from underneath up. You want the leaf dripping, not just misted. Move systematically through the plant. |
| Host puts on gloves | Safety every time: gloves, eye protection, no spray in wind. Wash hands after any application. Store labeled, out of direct sun. |
| Outro | Next clip: Beneficial insects — your natural allies. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | A3 · Clip 2 of 2: Beneficial Insects |
| Host at bed with ladybug | Before mixing anything, walk the affected plant and look for beneficial insects. If predators are already working, step back and let them. |
| Close-up: ladybug and larva | Ladybugs — adults and larvae — eat aphids: 50–60 per day per adult. The larva looks nothing like the adult: elongated, dark, slightly spiky. Don't mistake it for a pest. |
| Close-up: lacewing larva | Lacewing larvae — brownish, alligator-shaped, often right in the aphid colony. If you see one, hold off spraying that plant for 48 hours and check again. |
| Close-up: mummified aphids | Parasitic wasps are tiny. You'll know they've been at work when you see mummified aphids — papery golden-brown husks stuck to the leaf. Those aphids are dead. |
| ON SCREEN: Hold-off rule | If active beneficial insects are present on a plant: no spray for 48 hours. Scout again and reassess. |
| Outro | Next: Module A4 — Companion planting. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | A4 · Clip 1 of 2: How It Works |
| Host at mixed bed | This bed has basil between every few tomato plants and marigolds at the row ends. That's not decoration. Every plant here is doing a job. |
| Host with basil | Some companions repel pests with scent. Basil's volatile oils deter whiteflies, aphids, and mites. The companion must be interplanted within the row — a border 10 feet away does almost nothing. |
| Host at dill in flower | Some attract beneficial insects. Plants allowed to flower — dill, fennel, sweet alyssum — draw parasitic wasps and hoverflies that parasitize your pest populations. |
| Host at nasturtiums | Some act as trap crops. Nasturtiums attract aphids strongly. When heavily colonized, pull the whole plant to remove the population — no spray needed. |
| ON SCREEN: Key rule | Integrate companions within production rows — not just at the border. |
| Outro | Next clip: The specific pairings we use at Rose Creek Farms. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | A4 · Clip 2 of 2: Our Pairs |
| Host at tomato/basil | Tomatoes and basil — one per 2–3 tomato plants along the row. The basil also benefits from partial tomato shade in peak summer heat. |
| Host at marigolds | French marigolds at every bed end, every season. They also release a root exudate that suppresses certain nematodes. Replace annually. |
| Host at onion/carrot rows | Onions and carrots alternated in rows. Onion scent deters carrot flies; carrot scent deters onion flies. |
| Host at dill in flower | Dill allowed to bolt and flower. One or two plants per bed — once they've seeded, pull and resow. |
| Host at nasturtium | Nasturtiums at the perimeter of pepper and cucumber beds. When heavily infested, pull the whole plant. Large aphid population removed, no spray. |
| Outro | Next: Module A5 — Fungal disease. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | A5 · Clip 1 of 2: Symptoms |
| Host at squash bed, July | Las Vegas monsoon: humidity goes from 10% to 50–60% overnight. For fungal pathogens, that spike is an open invitation. Learn to recognize symptoms early. |
| Close-up: powdery mildew | Powdery mildew — white or gray powdery patches on leaf surfaces, spreading to cover the whole leaf. Most common on squash, cucumbers, roses, and melons. Spreads through the air, not water. |
| Close-up: early blight | Early blight on tomatoes — brown spots with yellow halo, starting on lowest leaves and moving upward. Remove affected leaves immediately. Do not compost during active outbreak. |
| Close-up: gummosis | Gummosis on stone fruits — amber sticky sap from bark cracks. Can be stress, bacterial canker, or borer activity. Note and report to your supervisor — don't cut without direction. |
| ON SCREEN: Monsoon rule | Zero overhead watering July–September. Overhead watering during monsoon spreads fungal disease rapidly. |
| Outro | Next clip: Treatment and prevention. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | A5 · Clip 2 of 2: Prevention & Treatment |
| Host at dense bed | Monsoon protocol starts physical: thin overcrowded growth, remove dead leaves, ensure no plant is touching its neighbor unnecessarily. Do this before early July. |
| ON SCREEN: Monsoon Protocol | Zero overhead watering. Daily scouting. Remove affected leaves same day. Improve airflow. Treat only established infections. |
| Host mixes potassium bicarb | Potassium bicarbonate for established powdery mildew: one tablespoon per quart of water. Apply early morning, never in full sun. It raises leaf surface pH — mildew cannot survive it. Repeat every 5–7 days. |
| Host removes blight leaf | When removing diseased foliage: don't shake the branch — that disperses spores. Cut clean, drop the leaf into a bag held directly below it, seal it. Sanitize pruners before touching another plant. |
| Host adjusts drip timer | If you receive 0.5 inches or more of rain, skip your next one to two irrigation cycles. Overwatering after monsoon rain causes root rot. Let the soil drain. |
| Outro | End of Course A. Course B: Pruning. |
~25 RTI hours · OJL Competency A
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | Course B — B1 · Clip 1 of 2: Why & When |
| Host in bare orchard | These trees look dormant. Right now is the right time to prune most of them. In Las Vegas, our window for deciduous trees is December 1 through mid-February. |
| Host at tree | Three reasons to prune: remove dead, diseased, or damaged wood before it harbors pests or disease. Open the canopy so sunlight reaches all fruit and air moves freely. Direct the tree's energy toward fruit, not excessive vegetative growth. |
| ON SCREEN: Pruning Calendar | Dec–mid Feb: peach, plum, apple, pear, apricot, pomegranate, rose. Mid-March onward: citrus ONLY. Never prune citrus in winter. |
| Host bends branch | Las Vegas trees may not fully defoliate. Watch for slowed growth and shortening days — not bare branches — as your signal. A fully leafed tree in December may still be dormant enough to prune. |
| Outro | Next clip: Tool prep and sanitation. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | B1 · Clip 2 of 2: Tool Prep |
| Host at bench | Three tools for all pruning: hand pruners under half an inch. Loppers half an inch to one and a half inches. Pruning saw for anything larger. Every tool sharp before you start. |
| Close-up: sharpening | Sharpen at a consistent angle following the existing bevel. Test on paper: it should cut cleanly without tearing. A dull cut leaves a ragged wound that heals slowly and invites disease. |
| Host sets up sanitizing bucket | Between every tree — not every few trees, every tree — dip blades in 70% isopropyl alcohol. Air dry 30 seconds. |
| ON SCREEN: Why Every Tree | Fire blight and bacterial canker transfer directly on blade surfaces. One infected tree can infect every tree you prune afterward. |
| Host applies pruning sealant | For cuts over one inch in diameter, apply pruning sealant. Smaller cuts heal faster without it. |
| Host puts on gloves and glasses | Gloves and safety glasses every time. Flying wood chips and spring-back from saws are the two most common pruning injuries. |
| Outro | Next: Module B2 — Pruning peach and plum. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | B2 · Clip 1 of 2: Open Center Form |
| Host at peach tree | Peaches and plums need the most aggressive annual pruning on this farm. Under-prune them and you get dense canopy, small fruit, and disease. This happens every year without exception. |
| ON SCREEN: The 3 Ds | Dead — gray, brittle, snaps cleanly. Diseased — discolored pith, cankers, gummosis. Damaged — broken, rubbing, cracked. Always start here. |
| Host cuts dead branch, shows cut face | Test suspect wood by cutting into it. Healthy wood: white-green pith. Brown or black streaking = disease. Cut further back until clean tissue. Sanitize blade immediately. |
| Host steps back, points to center | Open center — vase shape. Any branch growing back toward the center comes off, cut flush to its parent branch. |
| Host demonstrates 3-cut technique | Three-part cut for large branches: first cut underneath one-third through to prevent bark tearing. Second cut from above a few inches further out to drop the branch. Final cut flush to the collar — never into the collar, never leave a stub. |
| Outro | Next clip: Heading back laterals and apricot. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | B2 · Clip 2 of 2: Laterals & Apricot |
| Host at scaffold branch | After the 3 Ds are gone and center opened, head back each main scaffold branch by about one-third, cutting to a lateral branch or just above an outward-facing bud. |
| Close-up: 45° cut above bud | The cut goes at 45 degrees, one-quarter inch above an outward-facing bud. The angle sheds water away. The bud you cut above becomes the new growing tip. |
| Host thins fruiting wood | Thin fruiting wood — smaller lateral shoots along each scaffold. Peaches fruit on one-year-old wood. Remove weak or overcrowded shoots so remaining ones are 4–6 inches apart. |
| Transition to apricot | Apricots use the same principles but need less aggressive pruning. Don't take more than 20–25% of the canopy in one year. Goal: lighten the interior and remove the 3 Ds. |
| Close-up: gummosis | Watch for gummosis on apricots. Cut well below it into healthy tissue. Apricots are susceptible to Eutypa dieback — avoid pruning after rain. |
| Outro | Next: Module B3 — Apple and pear. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | B3 · Clip 1 of 1: Apple & Pear |
| Host at apple tree | Apple and pear fruit on spurs — short compressed clusters on wood two or more years old. Your main goal is to ensure spurs get good light and are not crowded. You are not trying to cut the tree back heavily. |
| Close-up: central leader | These trees grow in a central leader form — one dominant upright trunk with horizontal scaffold tiers 18–24 inches apart. Remove anything competing with the leader or growing strongly inward. |
| ON SCREEN: Fire Blight Warning — RED | FIRE BLIGHT: Blackened shepherd's crook tips. Cut 12 inches into healthy wood. Sanitize blade after EVERY cut. Non-negotiable. |
| Host demonstrates fire blight cut | When fire blight is active, normal between-tree sanitation is not sufficient. After every single cut, dip the blade, count to 30, then cut again. One contaminated cut can destroy a mature tree. |
| Host shows crowded spur cluster | On trees older than 5 years, thin crowded spur clusters to 1–2 spurs per cluster, spaced 3–4 inches apart along scaffold branches. |
| Outro | Next: Module B4 — Citrus and pomegranate. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | B4 · Clip 1 of 2: Citrus |
| Host at citrus, March | Citrus should never be pruned in late fall or winter. Pruning stimulates tender new growth that is highly frost-sensitive. In Las Vegas, wait until mid-March after frost risk has passed. |
| Host removes skirt branch | Three pruning goals. First: remove skirts — low branches touching or nearly touching soil. They spread disease and invite pests. Leave six inches of clearance below the lowest branch. |
| Host removes sucker below graft | Second: remove root suckers. Any growth below the graft union is rootstock — it will not produce the variety you want. Pull or cut flush to the root. |
| Host shows freeze-damaged branch | Third: assess and remove freeze damage. Wait until March — what looks dead in January sometimes recovers. Cut to live green tissue confirmed by the branch cross-section. |
| ON SCREEN: Citrus rule | Never take more than 20% of the canopy in one season. |
| Outro | Next clip: Pomegranate. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | B4 · Clip 2 of 2: Pomegranate |
| Host at pomegranate, February | Pomegranates are one of our most desert-adapted plants. They love heat, tolerate drought, and need minimal annual pruning. February, before new growth begins. |
| Host demonstrates form choice | Tree form: select 1–3 trunks, remove all others. Shrub form: allow 4–6 trunks. Choose your form and maintain it consistently year to year. |
| Host cuts sucker at base | Primary annual task: removing basal suckers. If left, they create a thicket that reduces fruit and harbors pests. Cut flush to the soil or trace to the root and pull. |
| Host opens interior | Light interior thinning: remove crossing branches and anything growing strongly inward. Keep cuts minimal — pomegranates fruit on the tips of new growth. Don't over-prune tips. |
| Outro | Next: Module B5 — Rose pruning. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | B5 · Clip 1 of 2: The Hard Prune |
| Host at rose beds, January | Las Vegas roses stay semi-evergreen in winter. When nights consistently drop below 50°F and growth slows, it's time for the hard prune — typically late January here. |
| Host at cane with tape measure | Cut all main canes back to 12–18 inches above the bud union. Any cane thinner than a pencil comes off entirely at the bud union. |
| Close-up: 45° cut | Every cut at 45 degrees, one-quarter inch above an outward-facing bud. The angle sheds water away. The outward-facing bud grows outward and keeps the center of the plant open. |
| Host flexes dead cane | Dead canes crackle when bent. Live canes flex. Remove all dead canes flush to the bud union. If every cane is dead but the bud union is green and firm, the plant will regenerate. |
| Host removes crossing cane | Look for crossing canes. Remove one of any crossing pair — keep the one that opens the plant up. Any cane growing back toward the center: remove it. |
| Outro | Next clip: Seasonal deadheading. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | B5 · Clip 2 of 2: Deadheading |
| Host at blooming roses | The hard prune sets up the season. Deadheading keeps it going. In Las Vegas, roses cycle through a new flush every five to six weeks from April through October — if you deadhead consistently. |
| Close-up: spent flower | When a flower fades, find the first five-leaflet leaf below it with an outward-facing bud above it. That's your cut point. |
| Host demonstrates cut | Cut at 45 degrees, one-quarter inch above that leaf and bud. The new shoot from this bud carries the next flower. Cutting below a three-leaflet leaf produces weaker growth and delays blooming. |
| Host works through whole bush | A full rose bush takes 3–5 minutes once you know what you're looking for. Start at the top, work down. Don't leave any stubs — they die back and invite disease. |
| ON SCREEN: LV Bloom Cycle | April → June → August → October — roughly 5–6 weeks between flushes if deadheaded consistently. |
| Outro | End of Course B. Course C: Soil and composting. |
~20 RTI hours · OJL Competency I
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | Course C — C1 · Clip 1 of 2: Las Vegas Soil Problems |
| Host holds soils in both hands | Feel this amended bed soil — dark, crumbly, holds moisture. Now this — native Las Vegas soil. Sandy, pale, almost no organic matter. These are the two realities of growing food here. |
| Host does pH test | Native soil tests 7.5 to 8.5 pH. Most vegetables want 6.0 to 7.0. Above 7.5, iron, manganese, and zinc get chemically locked up — present in the soil but unavailable to plants. |
| ON SCREEN: LV Native Soil | pH: 7.5–8.5 · Organic matter: under 1% · Drainage: very fast · Microbial life: minimal |
| Host shows caliche layer | Many parts of Las Vegas have a caliche layer — a hard calcium carbonate pan — that blocks root penetration and drainage. Break through it or raise beds above it when establishing new production areas. |
| Host gestures at amended beds | The solution is organic matter — added every season. Compost, worm castings, cover crops. It takes years to build great soil. Start every season. |
| Outro | Next clip: Testing soil and setting targets. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | C1 · Clip 2 of 2: Testing & Targets |
| Host with soil test kit | We test pH at the start of each season and after major amendments. A basic test kit works fine. Lab tests give you N-P-K levels for more detailed planning. |
| Close-up: pH meter in soil | Push a clean pH meter two inches into moist soil. Wait 30 seconds. Write down the reading with the date and bed location. Over seasons this number moves — that movement confirms your amendment program is working. |
| ON SCREEN: Target pH by Crop | Vegetables & herbs: 6.0–7.0 · Strawberries: 5.5–6.5 · Fruit trees: 6.0–7.0 · Lavender: 6.5–7.5 · Roses: 6.0–6.5 |
| Host calculates sulfur rate | If your pH is 7.8 and you need 6.5, add elemental sulfur. The rate depends on current pH, target pH, and soil type — your test kit includes a table. Apply in fall; sulfur takes 6–8 weeks to affect pH. |
| Host records result | Record every test in your soil log: date, bed, pH, amendments applied. This is part of your OJL documentation for Competency I. |
| Outro | Next: Module C2 — Setting up a worm bin. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | C2 · Clip 1 of 2: Setting Up |
| Host and partner at bins | Red wigglers — Eisenia fetida — live in decomposing organic matter, not soil. A pound processes half a pound of food waste per day and produces some of the most concentrated organic amendment available. |
| Demonstrating bedding | Bedding: shredded cardboard, torn newspaper, or coco coir, moistened to as wet as a wrung-out sponge. Fill the bin about one-third full. This is the worms' living environment. |
| Host adds worms | Add worms to the surface of the bedding. They'll burrow in quickly. Cover with damp cardboard. Red wigglers prefer darkness and will escape from a lit bin. |
| ON SCREEN: Heat Warning | Critical: worms die above 95°F. Keep bins in deep shade or bring inside during Las Vegas summer. |
| Host adds first feed | First feeding: bury kitchen scraps under the bedding. Buried food processes faster and reduces flies. Avoid meat, dairy, oily foods, and anything with salt or vinegar. |
| Outro | Next clip: Day-to-day management. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | C2 · Clip 2 of 2: Day-to-Day |
| Host checks moisture | Squeeze a handful of bedding — one or two drops of water is correct. Dry: spray with water. Soggy and sour-smelling: add dry cardboard, reduce feeding. |
| ON SCREEN: Feed / Don't Feed | FEED: veggie scraps · fruit · coffee · eggshells · plant material. AVOID: meat · dairy · oily foods · salt · vinegar · large amounts of citrus · pesticide-treated material. |
| Host demonstrates feeding rate | Feed only what they can process in 2–3 days. Overfeeding is the most common beginner mistake. When in doubt, underfeed and increase gradually. |
| Host shows fruit fly issue | Fruit flies: bury all food deeper, add dry cardboard on top, reduce the amount you add at once. |
| Host observes worms at surface | Worms clustering at the surface means something is wrong below — too wet, too acidic, or too hot. Check moisture, add dry bedding, confirm temperature is below 85°F. |
| Outro | Next: Module C3 — Harvesting castings and brewing tea. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | C3 · Clip 1 of 2: Harvesting Castings |
| Host at mature bin | Ready to harvest: mostly dark uniform material, very little visible original bedding or scraps. Takes 3–4 months with consistent management. |
| Host demonstrates migration method | Stop feeding one side for two weeks. Feed the other side only. Worms follow the food. After two weeks, scoop out the unfed side — mostly finished castings. |
| Close-up: castings in hand | Finished castings look like fine dark soil. They smell earthy — like healthy forest floor. That pleasant smell is your quality indicator. |
| Host applies castings to bed | Apply as a top dressing: work a quarter inch into the top inch of soil. A small handful in each transplant hole. A little goes a long way — castings are concentrated. |
| Outro | Next clip: Brewing worm tea. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | C3 · Clip 2 of 2: Worm Tea |
| Host at 5-gallon bucket | Worm tea multiplies the beneficial microorganisms from the castings in water, then delivers them to the root zone or leaf surface. The key is continuous aeration — without oxygen you grow the wrong microbes. |
| Host sets up brew | Non-chlorinated water. One cup of castings in a mesh bag. One tablespoon of unsulfured molasses. Run an aquarium air pump continuously for 24–36 hours. |
| Host starts air pump | The bubbling keeps oxygen levels high. After 24 hours, the tea is brown and slightly frothy. Use it within 2–3 hours of finishing — while microbial populations are at their peak. |
| Host applies tea | As soil drench: half to one gallon per plant around the root zone. As foliar spray: apply early morning below 80°F — hot sun kills the microbes before they can colonize the leaf surface. |
| Outro | Next: Module C4 — Applying amendments. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | C4 · Clip 1 of 2: Fall Bed Prep |
| Host at cleared summer bed | After summer production, your beds are depleted. October is the most important amendment moment of the year. |
| Host spreads compost | Start with finished compost — two to three inches spread over the cleared bed surface. Work into the top 6–8 inches with a fork. Bulk amendment: organic matter, slow-release nutrients, structure. |
| Host adds castings on top | On top, add half an inch of worm castings worked into the top two inches. You don't need more — castings are concentrated. |
| Host does pH test, adds sulfur | Retest pH. Still above 7.2: apply elemental sulfur at the bag's rate for your soil type. Work it in and water thoroughly. Retest in 6–8 weeks. |
| Host applies mulch | Finish with 3–4 inches of straw or wood chip mulch. Protects soil, reduces moisture loss, moderates temperature through winter. |
| Outro | Next clip: Winter cover crops. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | C4 · Clip 2 of 2: Cover Crops |
| Wide shot: cover crop beds | Crimson clover and winter rye — our standard winter mix. Clover fixes atmospheric nitrogen. Rye adds bulk organic matter when turned in. |
| Host demonstrates broadcast seeding | Broadcast over cleared amended beds at the package rate. Rake lightly. Water like any seeded crop until germination in 5–10 days. |
| ON SCREEN: Desert Timing | Sow: Oct 1 – Nov 15. Turn in: Jan 15 – Feb 15, 3–4 weeks before planting. Do NOT attempt summer cover crops — they fail in our heat without constant irrigation. |
| Host turns in mature cover crop | Turn in with a broadfork before the crop goes to seed. Ideally at flowering stage. Chop into the top 8 inches of soil. |
| Host waters bed after turning in | Water the turned-in bed thoroughly. Decomposition needs moisture. When the material is unrecognizable — typically 2–3 weeks — the bed is ready to plant. |
| Outro | End of Course C. Course D: Field topics. |
~20 RTI hours · Multiple OJL competencies
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | Course D — D1 · Cover Crops |
| Wide shot: green cover crop beds | These beds look like weeds. They're not — this is intentional, and it's doing more work for our soil right now than any fertilizer could. |
| Host at legumes | Legumes — clover, field peas, vetch — fix nitrogen from the atmosphere through root nodules. When turned in, they release it into the soil as they decompose. Free fertilizer. |
| Host holds rye plant | Grasses — winter rye, oats — add large volumes of organic matter when turned in. They grow fast in our mild winters, producing significant biomass from minimal water. |
| Host at daikon radish | Brassicas — especially daikon radish — have deep taproots that break through compaction and mine nutrients from deep in the soil profile. When they decompose, they leave channels for water and air movement. |
| ON SCREEN: Rose Creek Standard Mix | 60% crimson clover + 40% winter rye. Sow Oct–Nov. Turn in Feb. Results: measurable nitrogen increase + improved structure every season. |
| Outro | Next: Module D2 — Bees. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | D2 · Clip 1 of 2: Working Safely with Bees |
| Host near lavender | Bees are integral to this farm. Without pollinators, tomatoes, squash, cucumbers, peppers, eggplant, and fruit trees would not produce. Working safely around them is part of your job here. |
| Host demonstrates calm movement | Move slowly and calmly near bees. Do not swat. Do not make sudden movements. If a bee lands on you, stay still and let it leave. |
| ON SCREEN: Spray Rule | NEVER spray — even water — on open flowers when bees are foraging. Schedule all sprays before 7am or after sunset. |
| Host at hive location | Our hives are managed by a licensed partner beekeeper. Your role is awareness, not hive management. Do not open a hive, block its entrance, or spray near the entrance. |
| Host describes reporting | Report to your supervisor if you observe: large numbers of bees on the ground, a cluster hanging from a fence or branch, or aggressive bee behavior near a work area. |
| Outro | Next clip: Pollination in action. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | D2 · Clip 2 of 2: Pollination |
| Close-up: bee on tomato flower | Watch this bee on a tomato flower. It's vibrating at a specific frequency — you can hear it if you get close. That vibration shakes pollen loose. This is buzz pollination. Without it, the tomato flower drops without setting fruit. |
| Host at squash flowers, morning | Squash flowers open only in the morning and close by midday. Bee activity before 10am is critical for squash, cucumbers, and melons. If your pollination rate is low on these crops, check whether spraying or work activities are disturbing bees during morning foraging. |
| Close-up: cucumber fruit set | Every cucumber, pepper, squash, eggplant, and fruit on this farm started as a pollinated flower. Protecting pollinator habitat — keeping flowering plants available throughout the season — is part of our farm management strategy. |
| ON SCREEN: Pollinator-Dependent Crops | Tomatoes · Peppers · Eggplant · Cucumbers · Squash · Fruit trees · Lavender · Strawberries |
| Outro | Next: Module D3 — Mushroom cultivation. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | D3 · Clip 1 of 2: Mycelium & Substrate |
| Host at grow bags | Mushrooms are not plants — they're fungi. They don't photosynthesize, don't need sunlight, and feed on decomposing organic material. What we're farming is a fruiting body — the reproductive structure of a much larger organism called mycelium. |
| Close-up: mycelium in bag | This white thread-like material throughout the bag is mycelium — the main body of the fungus. It's colonizing a sterilized substrate of hardwood sawdust and wheat bran. When conditions are right, it produces mushrooms. |
| ON SCREEN: Our System | Varieties: Oyster (Pleurotus ostreatus) and Shiitake (Lentinula edodes). Substrate: hardwood sawdust + bran. Spawn: certified grain spawn. Fruiting trigger: humidity + temperature drop + fresh air. |
| Host shows spawn grain | Spawn is mycelium grown onto grain — this is how we introduce the fungus into the substrate. This bag was inoculated 4 weeks ago and is now fully colonized and ready to fruit. |
| Outro | Next clip: Triggering fruiting and harvesting. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | D3 · Clip 2 of 2: Fruiting & Harvest |
| Host moves bag to fruiting chamber | To trigger fruiting: move the colonized bag to this shaded fruiting chamber and cut the bag open. The cut exposes the mycelium to air, humidity, and the temperature drop from the cooler shaded environment. |
| Demonstrates cutting bag | Cut a 4–6 inch X in the side of the bag. Mist the cut surface with water. Maintain 80–90% relative humidity around the exposed surface. |
| Fast-cut: pins forming | Within 3–5 days you'll see small white pins forming on the exposed surface. Oyster mushrooms go from visible pin to harvest size in 4–7 days. Shiitake takes 7–14 days. |
| Host demonstrates harvest twist | Grip the cluster at the base, twist gently while pulling outward and slightly down. A clean harvest separates the cluster without tearing the mycelium. The substrate will produce two to four additional flushes. |
| Outro | Next: Module D4 — CSA subscriptions. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | D4 · Clip 1 of 2: What is a CSA? |
| Host at market prep station | CSA — Community Supported Agriculture. Members pay upfront for a weekly or bi-weekly box of whatever is freshest from the farm. They share the risk and reward of the growing season with us. |
| Host assembles sample box | Each box contains peak-harvest produce that week. A late April box: herbs, lettuce, radishes, strawberries. An October box: sweet peppers, beets, carrots, eggplant, fresh flowers. Contents change constantly — that variability is the point. |
| ON SCREEN: CSA Benefits | For the farm: upfront capital, committed customers, direct feedback. For members: peak-season produce, direct relationship with growers, lower cost than retail. |
| Host at member communication | Communication is half the job. Tell members what's in the box and how to use it. A simple recipe card or weekly note dramatically increases member satisfaction and retention. |
| Outro | Next clip: Pack-out and production planning. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | D4 · Clip 2 of 2: Pack-Out & Planning |
| Host at wash station | Pack-out happens the day before delivery. Wash and dry all produce before boxing — wet produce in a closed box accelerates decay. |
| Host grades and weighs | Grade for quality: remove damaged or over-ripe pieces. Weigh each item for consistent box value. Document what went in and the weights — this is your traceability record. |
| Host arranges box | Pack heavy items at bottom, delicate items on top. Include a contents list in every box. Members who know what they have are far more satisfied than members opening a mystery box. |
| Host at planting calendar | CSA planning requires thinking 4–6 weeks ahead. Succession planting — sowing quick crops like lettuce, radishes, and herbs every 2–3 weeks — ensures something is always ready. |
| Host marks gap period on calendar | Identify your gap periods: mid-July to late August in Las Vegas, most cool-season crops are finished. Plan your box mix accordingly and communicate with members so they know what to expect. |
| Outro | Next: Module D5 — Water conservation. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | D5 · Clip 1 of 2: Drip Irrigation |
| Wide shot: drip system running | Las Vegas water is precious. How we use it directly affects cost, sustainability, and whether this farm operates long term. |
| Host: overhead vs drip comparison | An overhead sprinkler in Las Vegas summer loses 30–50% of its water to evaporation before it reaches the soil. Drip delivers directly to the root zone — almost none is lost. Over a full season, that difference can cut water use nearly in half. |
| Close-up: emitter rates | Emitters are rated by flow rate — half gallon to two gallons per hour. Larger thirstier crops like tomatoes and squash get higher flow emitters. Herbs and small crops get lower flow. Match emitter to crop. |
| Host at controller | The controller sets run time and frequency. These are starting points. Check actual soil moisture regularly and adjust — a timer that worked in April needs to increase in June and July. |
| ON SCREEN: Seasonal Guide | Feb–Apr: 15–20 min/day · May–Jun: 25–35 min/day · Jul–Aug: 35–50 min/day · Sep–Oct: 20–30 min/day · Nov–Jan: 5–15 min every 2–3 days |
| Outro | Next clip: Mulch, timing, and monsoon adjustments. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | D5 · Clip 2 of 2: Mulch & Monsoon |
| Host: mulched vs unmulched bed comparison | An unmulched bed loses moisture fast in desert heat. A mulched bed stays cool and moist. Three to four inches of straw or wood chips reduces evaporation by 50–70% on a hot Las Vegas day. Mulch every production bed. |
| Host moisture test with fingers | Soil moisture test: push two fingers two inches into soil near plant roots. Moist — skip irrigation today. Dry at one inch — irrigate. Simple and reliable. |
| ON SCREEN: Best Timing | Best: before 7am. Water applied to warm afternoon soil loses significant volume to surface evaporation. Morning watering also ensures foliage dries before nightfall. |
| Host at rain gauge after monsoon | When monsoon rain arrives, adjust immediately. 0.5 inches or more: skip the next one to two irrigation cycles and let the soil drain. Overwatering after monsoon is one of the main causes of root rot at Las Vegas farms. |
| Host adjusts controller | After significant rain, walk your beds and check actual soil moisture before resuming normal irrigation. Wet soil plus drip irrigation suffocates roots. |
| Outro | End of Course D. Course E: Lavender and distillation. |
~49 RTI hours · OJL Competency L
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | Course E — E1 · Clip 1 of 2: Varieties |
| Host in lavender rows | Lavender evolved in the hot, dry, rocky hills of the Mediterranean. Las Vegas — full sun, alkaline soil, low humidity — is one of the most naturally suited places in the U.S. to grow it well. |
| Host at L. angustifolia | Lavandula angustifolia — true lavender. Compact, lower-growing. High linalool and linalyl acetate in the oil — complex sweet-floral profile. Lower yield per plant, higher value per milliliter. |
| Host at lavandin hybrid | Lavandins — hybrids of true lavender and spike lavender. Larger plants, more flowers, higher oil yield per plant. Oil is slightly more camphor-forward. We grow both varieties here. |
| ON SCREEN: Site Requirements | Full sun: 8+ hours. Drainage: excellent. pH: 6.5–7.5. Spacing: 24–36 inches. Water: deep irrigation every 7–10 days once established. |
| Outro | Next clip: Year-round lavender care. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | E1 · Clip 2 of 2: Year-Round Care |
| Host: unpruned vs pruned side by side | Left: lavender unpruned for two years — woody, sprawling, low production. Right: the same variety pruned annually — compact, vigorous, productive. Annual pruning is the difference. |
| Host demonstrates February prune | In February, cut the plant back by one-third of its green growth. Never cut into the woody crown — always leave green leafy growth below your cut. |
| Host demonstrates post-harvest shaping | After harvest in May or June, shape the plant — cut back about one-quarter of the green growth to tidy the form and encourage bushy regrowth for next season. |
| Host at drip emitter near lavender | Established lavender needs very little water. Deep irrigation every 7–10 days in summer. Overwatering is the most common cause of lavender death in Las Vegas — far more common than drought. |
| Outro | Next: Module E2 — Harvest timing. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | E2 · Clip 1 of 2: Bloom Stage |
| Host at lavender row, April | Timing the harvest is the single most important skill in essential oil production. The difference between 25% bloom and full bloom can mean the difference between premium and mediocre oil from the same plant. |
| Close-up: 25% bloom spike | 25% bloom — florets on the bottom third of the spike open, upper two-thirds still in bud. Beginning of our harvest window. Oil content is building. |
| Close-up: 50% bloom spike | 50% bloom — half the florets open. Peak oil content. The ratio of linalool to camphor is at its best right now. This is your target for essential oil production. |
| Close-up: full bloom spike | Full bloom — 80–100% open. Beautiful, but oil content and quality has already peaked. Fine for dried bundles. For essential oil production, you've missed the window. |
| ON SCREEN: Las Vegas Timing | Las Vegas lavender blooms 4–6 weeks earlier than national averages. Begin daily monitoring from April 1st. Read your plants — not the calendar. |
| Outro | Next clip: Temperature and time of day. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | E2 · Clip 2 of 2: When to Cut Each Day |
| Host at lavender, 6:30am | Essential oils are volatile — they evaporate in heat. In Las Vegas in May, air temperature can reach 100°F by 11am. A field harvested at 2pm has measurably lower oil content than the same field harvested at 7am. |
| Host checks dew on plant | Harvest after overnight moisture has dried from the plant — usually by 7–8am. Wet plant material dilutes the oil and creates water separation problems during distillation. |
| Host crushes plant material, smells it | Use your nose. At peak oil content, crushing a small amount between your fingers releases an immediate, intense sweet-floral fragrance. Past peak, the scent becomes more camphorous — sharper, less sweet. Train your nose to notice the difference. |
| ON SCREEN: Harvest Window Summary | Best: 6am–10am · After dew dries · 25–50% bloom · Fragrance: intense sweet-floral · Temperature: below 90°F |
| Outro | Next: Module E3 — Cutting, bundling, and drying. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | E3 · Clip 1 of 2: Cutting & Bundling |
| Host with harvest sickle | Use a sharp curved harvest sickle or clean pruning shears. Whatever you use, it must be sharp. Tearing cuts are harder on the plant and slower for you. |
| Close-up: correct cut placement | Cut each stem 6–8 inches below the flower spike, through the green leafy portion. Never cut into or below the woody crown at the base. Always leave at least 4 inches of green growth below your cut. |
| Host works through a row | Work one row at a time. Gather stems in your non-cutting hand as you go. Work in the early morning — in full sun above 90°F, cut lavender loses oil rapidly. |
| Host bundles with rubber band | When you have 50–100 stems, band them at the base with a rubber band — not twine. Rubber bands contract with the bundle as it dries. Twine goes slack and falls off. |
| Host brings bundle to shade | Move cut material to shade within 30 minutes. The oil leaves the plant from the moment you cut it. Speed to shade — and then to the drying rack or still — preserves your product. |
| Outro | Next clip: Drying versus fresh distillation. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | E3 · Clip 2 of 2: Dry or Distill? |
| Host at hanging bundles | For dried product: hang upside down in a cool, shaded, well-ventilated space. Upside-down keeps spikes straight. In Las Vegas summer with low humidity, expect drying in 5–7 days. |
| Host snap test for dryness | Dryness test: stems should snap cleanly rather than bending. If they still bend, give them more time. Never store incompletely dried bundles — mold can develop in dense flower heads. |
| Host checks bundles for mold | Check bundles every two days. If you find mold, separate affected bundles immediately and increase airflow. |
| Host at distillery entrance | For essential oil: process fresh. Fresh plant material yields more oil per pound than dried. Process same day if possible. 24 hours maximum. |
| ON SCREEN: Fresh vs. Dried Yield | Fresh: 0.8–1.5 ml per lb (L. angustifolia). Dried: 0.5–1.0 ml per lb. Fresh is worth the urgency. |
| Outro | Next: Module E4 — How steam distillation works. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | E4 · Clip 1 of 2: The Science |
| Host at diagram | Steam distillation uses water vapor to extract volatile aromatic compounds from plant material, then separates the oil from the water. Four steps. |
| Diagram: boiler | Step one: water in the boiler is heated to produce steam. That steam rises into the chamber holding the lavender. |
| Diagram: steam through plant | Step two: steam passes through the lavender, absorbing the volatile oil compounds — linalool, linalyl acetate, and dozens of others — from the plant cells. |
| Diagram: condenser | Step three: steam and oil vapor travel through a coiled tube submerged in cool water — the condenser. They condense back into liquid form. |
| Diagram: separator vessel | Step four: the liquid enters a separator vessel. Essential oil floats on top. The water — hydrosol — stays below. Draw them off separately. |
| Host holds hydrosol vial | Hydrosol is not waste. It contains water-soluble aromatic compounds — gentle, fragrant, usable in cosmetics, as a room spray, or in the kitchen. Collect and store it separately. |
| Outro | Next clip: Temperature, yield, and what can go wrong. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | E4 · Clip 2 of 2: Temperature & Yield |
| Host at still | Temperature control separates good distillation from poor distillation. The goal is gentle, steady steam — not an aggressive rolling boil. |
| ON SCREEN: Problems from High Heat | Aggressive boiling: pushes water into condenser → dilutes oil. Damages heat-sensitive top note compounds → flat oil. Can crack seals. Always: medium heat, consistent steam. |
| Host shows correct drip rate | Correct output from the condenser: a steady drip — not gushing, not trickling. Gushing means too hot. Trickling means heat is too low or condenser water not cold enough. |
| Host calculates yield | Yield tracking: oil volume in ml divided by fresh plant weight in lbs = ml per lb. Example: 12 ml oil from 10 lbs = 1.2 ml per lb. Track across the season — improvement shows up in the data. |
| Host explains low yield causes | Low yield causes: late harvest, afternoon harvest, dried instead of fresh material, under-packed still, poor seal losing steam, condenser not cold enough. Each is fixable once you identify it. |
| Outro | Next: Module E5 — Operating the still. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | E5 · Clip 1 of 3: Pre-Run & Loading |
| ON SCREEN — SAFETY | SAFETY: The still operates under steam pressure and heat. Know the emergency shutoff before you start. Never leave a running still unattended. |
| Host and Nectar Life partner at still | Every run starts with the same pre-run inspection. Five minutes. Non-negotiable. |
| Host checks gaskets | Inspect all gaskets and O-rings for cracking or hardening. A failed seal loses steam and oil, and can cause burns. If a gasket looks questionable, replace it. |
| Host fills boiler with filtered water | Fill the boiler with clean filtered or reverse-osmosis water. Las Vegas tap water scales equipment and can affect the oil's aroma. Record water volume in your batch log. |
| Host loads lavender loosely | Load lavender loosely — you want steam to pass through evenly. Tight packing creates hot spots and uneven extraction. Fill to about 80% of chamber capacity. |
| Host places distribution plate | Place the distribution plate at the bottom of the chamber to keep plant material above the boiler water level. Direct contact with boiling water can scorch plant material. |
| Outro | Next clip: Running the still. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | E5 · Clip 2 of 3: The Run |
| Host seals chamber, starts heat | Seal the chamber securely. Start heat on medium — building to steady steam, not an instant boil. Allow 10–15 minutes to reach operating temperature. |
| Host watches condenser outlet | First output appears within minutes of reaching temperature. Start your timer when you see consistent flow — this is your run start time. |
| Host checks condenser temperature | The condenser outlet tube should feel cool throughout the run. If it's warm, increase cooling water flow. A warm condenser means incomplete condensation and oil loss. |
| Host watches separator vessel | Watch the oil accumulate in the separator vessel. 70–80% of your oil comes out in the first 20–30 minutes. The rate slows after that. |
| Host demonstrates end-of-run signs | End the run when: oil layer has stopped growing and output smells more watery than floral. Turn off heat. Do not open the chamber while still under pressure — wait 10–15 minutes for it to cool. |
| Host collects oil and records data | Draw off the hydrosol from the bottom of the separator vessel. Transfer the essential oil to amber glass vials immediately. Record: run time, oil yield in ml, hydrosol yield, and observations. |
| Outro | Next clip: Post-run cleanup. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | E5 · Clip 3 of 3: Cleanup |
| Host begins cleanup immediately | Clean up immediately after every run while everything is still warm and residues are easy to remove. Oil residue left in equipment oxidizes and will contaminate your next batch. |
| Host rinses all components | Disassemble and rinse all components with clean hot water. No soap in the boiler or chamber — soap residue is nearly impossible to fully remove and will taint oil. |
| ON SCREEN: End-of-Season Deep Clean | Run a cleaning distillation with water and 2 tbsp white vinegar. Removes mineral scale and oil residue. Disassemble fully, dry completely, inspect all gaskets before storing. |
| Host dries and inspects gaskets | Dry every component before reassembling or storing. Moisture trapped inside equipment breeds mold and accelerates corrosion. |
| Host stores equipment covered | Store in a cool, dry, covered location away from direct sun. Label each component if disassembled — you want to set up quickly at the start of next season without hunting for parts. |
| Outro | Next: Module E6 — Quality control and batch records. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | E6 · Clip 1 of 2: Quality Evaluation |
| Host with vials resting 48 hrs | Don't evaluate freshly distilled oil immediately. Let it rest, sealed, for 24–48 hours. The dissolved gases and trace water that alter the aroma clear out. The true scent reveals itself after resting. |
| Host evaluates color | Color: pale yellow to nearly clear is correct for L. angustifolia. Cloudy oil likely has water content — let it settle. Green tint can mean stem material was included in the distillation. |
| Host smells two vials: good vs poor | Premium true lavender: sweet, floral, herbal, slightly woody. Strongly camphorous or sharp = late harvest or lavandin. Flat or "cooked" smell = distillation temperature too high. These distinctions come with experience. |
| ON SCREEN: Quality Issues & Causes | Camphorous → harvest too late. Flat/cooked → heat too high. Cloudy → water content. Weak → late harvest or dried material. Off-odor → contaminated still. |
| Outro | Next clip: Storage, labeling, and batch records. |
| Scene / Visual | Narrator / On-screen text |
|---|---|
| Title card | E6 · Clip 2 of 2: Storage & Records |
| Host at storage area with amber vials | Essential oil degrades with UV light, heat, and oxygen. Always store in amber glass — not clear, not plastic. Seal tightly after every use. |
| Host shows correct storage location | Store in a cool, dark cabinet, ideally below 65°F. Properly stored lavender oil: 2–3 year shelf life. Improper storage: months. |
| Host labels a vial | Label every vial immediately: batch date, lavender variety, yield in ml, your initials. Never leave an unlabeled vial — multiple batches look identical. |
| Host at batch log | Batch log required fields: date · variety · weight of fresh material (lbs) · run start and end time · oil yield (ml) · hydrosol yield · bloom stage at harvest · days after harvest before processing · notes. |
| Host points to trends across entries | Over a full season, the batch log tells a story: which weeks produced best yields, how harvest timing correlated with quality, where technique improved. This record is also part of your OJL documentation for Competency L. |
| Host closes log, looks to camera | Every milliliter you produce represents a skill you built — timing, technique, care, and attention. Keep the record well. |
| FINAL OUTRO CARD | End of Course E. Congratulations on completing all RTI video modules. |
Schedule filming during the correct season to capture authentic on-farm footage.
| Month / Window | Clips to film |
|---|---|
| Jan – Feb | B1-1 · B1-2 · B2-1 · B2-2 · B3-1 · B4-2 · B5-1 |
| Mid-March | B4-1 (citrus — after frost risk) |
| April – May | E1-1 · E1-2 · E2-1 · E2-2 · E3-1 · E3-2 |
| May – June | E4-1 · E4-2 · E5-1 · E5-2 · E5-3 · E6-1 · E6-2 |
| May – July | A2-1 · A2-2 · A3-1 (active pest season) |
| July – Aug | A5-1 · A5-2 (monsoon season footage) |
| Oct – Nov | C4-1 · C4-2 (fall bed prep and cover crops) |
| Year-round | A1-1 · A1-2 · A3-2 · A4-1 · A4-2 · B5-2 · C1-1 · C1-2 · C2-1 · C2-2 · C3-1 · C3-2 · D1-1 · D2-1 · D2-2 · D3-1 · D3-2 · D4-1 · D4-2 · D5-1 · D5-2 |